I’m currently on yet another work trip to Jamaica. As more frequent readers will know, I have rather mixed feelings about Jamaica. The last week has made me significantly fonder of it. When I arrived, the taxi driver told me that a star was coming. Excited by the remote possibility that Matt Damon had finally come to claim me as rightfully his, I asked for clarification. Then I realised that “star” was heavily Jamaican accented “storm”. In these parts of the world, you don’t hear people talk in hyperbolic terms about hurricanes; they just talk about storms. If they’re recalling a particular storm, they talk about Gilbert or Wilma, as if talking of members of their family. Ivan is the Jamaican equivalent of Voldemort: the storm that shall not be mentioned by name. Ivan made a right mess. Ivan was a bastard.
I rather like the fact that they call a hurricane a storm. That is, after all, what it is, albeit a bloody big one.
Talk of the impending storm was always there in the background of most conversations, but it only came to the foreground on Friday. Hurricanes tend to change directions so often that people keep a watch on it, but don’t get too jumpy until a strike seems imminent. As ever, I was amused/ bemused by CNN, where presenters openly and pompously stated that the people of Jamaica They really weren’t; they just deal with stuff as it happens and in a proportionate way. God, I despise the American “news” media, for their sheer lack of professionalism. Huge storms are a constant risk here. If people panicked each time one might strike, they’d live in constant, debilitating fear, so the people of Jamaica keep are wary, but they don’t get carried away. Most people are OK in storms. Generally, if you have a house with a roof that’s not made of corrugated zinc, you’ll be OK. If you live away from the shoreline, you’ll be fine. It won’t be fun, but you’ll be fine. And it probably won’t happen anyway, so (to quote one of my colleagues here) “will ya get a grip, man!” I feel that Jamaicans could teach many people in the world a thing or two about dealing with the distant threat of terrorism. My own anxiety about hurricanes is understandable, but it’s fuelled by the media and is thus disproportionate to the real risk. were ill prepared and in denial about the impending catastrophe.
In fact, Jamaica has a very well organised system of dealing with impending hurricanes. They take the power grid down a few hours before the storm hits in order to minimise damage that live wires inflict upon themselves and thus minimise overall down time. They offer shelter to the poorest. They impose a curfew to limit looting because, God knows, there’s no shortage of less savoury Jamaicans who love nothing more than a nice bit of looting. In other words, they have it pretty much sorted. They know that hurricanes are a threat to the poorest and that’s where they dedicate their efforts; the rich are well enough resourced to look after themselves. The Jamaican authorities apparently spoke to FEMA in the USA as Katrina headed for New Orleans and said that their experience would be useful to help the poor of Louisiana, seeing clear parallels with their own situation. With predictable arrogance, the US authorities spurned the offer; countless Americans suffered or died as a consequence, while the authorities focused their attention on marshalling fleets of underfilled 4x4 cars out of town, leaving the poor in their homes below sea level to suffer without support.
I’m sounding rather anti-American. I don’t mean to; I like America and I adore the American dream. I just find it extremely frustrating and arrogant in parts.
We finished work at lunchtime on Saturday, three hours early to give people time to board up, etc. Most people have some and basics ready; only the terminally badly organised made a run on the supermarkets. Again, the news coverage was misleading. I’m afraid that if people can’t work out that they need to have certain non-perishable basics (torch, candles, battery powered radio with spares, tinned food, manual tin opener, bottled gas stove) ready for the season for the hurricane season, the Darwinian order is that their terminally poor organisation puts them at serious risk of involuntary removal from the gene pool. These people were a minority, but a minority that provides good pictures for television. Hence the World is presented with them as the norm.
I was planning to go to Florida for a few days in any event, as I had a layover and I’d prefer to spend it in Florida than Kingston. I brought my plans forward a day, as although I was rather tempted to experience a hurricane, but I feared the potential lawlessness that may follow from a direct hit from a category 4 storm. Jamaica’s not the most law abiding of places at the best of times. Desperate people and stretched emergency services could be a bad combination. I realised it would be foolish to stay, so I left, but I felt a coward in doing so. In the end, I left to avoid days of involuntary disconnection from my creature comforts, like itunes, blogging and Facebook. That’s the measure of how shallow I am.
The phrase “calm before the storm” should be taken fairly literally. One does indeed experience a significant calm, with blue clear skies and little wind. I can’t be sure that I’m reading something into this because I knew of the imminent storm, but there was a sense of something unreal. Atmospheric pressures plummet as a hurricane approaches, so perhaps we can all sense that? Certainly, the low lying land by the sea on the way to the airport was oddly flooded by a calm sea. It just looked and felt odd; the same way that a solar eclipse feels strange even before totality; the light is like twilight but with no long shadows. It’s obvious that something eerie is approaching. Seasoned locals told me that suddenly elevated sea levels are their natural warning to batten down the hatches. The low pressure literally sucks the sea up a good few feet. This is what causes the most damage; sea levels are high even when calm. Add a big storm to that and you don’t want to be too near the sea, or live below sea level. Guess where the rich people and the poor people live?
Let me just do a quick diversion into the story of the flight out. I got a flight to Atlanta, which Delta had laid on specially, presumably as a profit seeking enterprise. The flight was busy but not full. Stories of planes leaving full with stranded distraught people left behind do not tally at all with my experience. Despite the sense of emergency and despite having driven past homes that the very poor were in serious danger of losing, there was still no end of fuss from the overprivileged, overpampered and plain overfed passengers. The two girls in front of me (who were morbidly obese and were Jamaican-Americans I think) had asked the crew for four packs of peanuts before we’d even pushed back. They were, so they said, “starving”. I shit thee not when I say that one even pushed the crew call button to ask for more food as we were rolling along the runway for take-off. Trust me, they could have not eaten for three months and still be far from even thin. One had come equipped with a special extender seat belt because the standard one couldn’t reach around her girth. There’s something utterly wrong about this kind of scenario. I felt like I was one of Marie Antoinette’s closest helpmeets at this moment, just for being there. Some inner sense of morality made me decline the free food and drink. It just seemed wrong to feast as we flew out of a potential disaster zone. The people who’d driven us all to the airport, who had handled our bags and efficiently screened us through security were all staying and they weren’t making any fuss, yet “we” continued to be unreasonable and demanding. They had every reason to hate us, yet they didn’t seem to. Indeed, they mostly seemed to think it was a lot of fuss about a “starm” that might not even strike anyway, although it was seen as a real risk. It was seen as a particular risk as it had a male name. In a place as superstitious as Jamaica, the pattern that hurricanes with male names are the ones to hit the island has not gone unnoticed.
I’ve blogged separately about Atlanta airport, but I truthfully believe that riding out a category 4 storm would be less stressful than flying through American airports on international flights with American airlines (any of them rather than American Airlines the company, hence the lower case a in airlines; grammar matters!) I loathe Atlanta airport and the fuss coming out of Fort Lauderdale I shall bang on separately about that. Suffice to say that the calm way in which Jamaicans deal with real risks in a proportionate way compares exceptionally favourably with how the US government deals hysterically with overstated risks of terrorism. The Jamaicans address their risks; the Americans make lots of noise and fuss but don’t deal with the actual risks in anything like an efficient manner. today was inexcusable and a major security risk in itself.
So back in Jamaica, things are almost normal. The eye of the storm passed about 50 miles to the south of the island and it didn’t intensify to category 5. There’s a vast difference in the destructive power of category 5 compared with category 4 and a huge difference between a direct hit and a near miss. This hotel is still running on its own generators, but all is near normal. Only the pool remains closed. Such is their lack of fuss that I imagine there’s a good reason for the pool to be closed. I expect it will open again just as soon as they’re sure there’s no more glass in the bottom of it, or whatever the danger is.
I was staying at the Pegaus hotel. Courtesy of airlines’ odd pricing, it was cheaper for me to bundle two weeks hotel stay with the flight rather than just the flight, because it was then deemed to be a holiday. This means I didn’t check out of the hotel when I left, because I expected to come back. I did tell reception what I was doing, but I think they were a bit too preoccupied with the matter immediately in hand to pay much attention. When I arrived today, I found out that the hotel was closed as there had been a fire there. I began to explain what I’d done and the girl smiled and said “Ah, you must be Mr [my name]! We’d wondered what had happened to you!” For a hotel with hundreds of rooms, this was rather cute. It’s not been a good 12 months for the Kingston Pegasus hotel. Firstly it achieved notoriety for the alleged murder of Bob Woolmer. Then came Dean; immediately followed by a fire that caused its temporary closure. Apparently, one of the backup generators caught fire, with this fire spreading to the storeroom where they keep the drink. Jamaican rum, I am told with some chuckling by the remaining staff, turns out to be a mightily good fire accelerant. You couldn’t make it up, could you? So they booked me into the neighbouring hotel, from whence I presently blog. All is fine. It would be better if Sprit Airlines had managed to deliver my bag to Kingston as well as deliver me. My recent experience is that the people of Jamaica make considerably less fuss about hurricanes and hotel fires than the people of America make about routine baggage handling. I have decided that there is much about Jamaica that I like. If ever I’m here again when there’s a “starm cummin’”, I shall choose to ride it out.